Day 43 Hay-on-Wye to Kington

Today it was raining. I had a very slow start. Blandine was off and out before I had finished my breakfast (and arrived, I later found out, at 1.30). The rain gradually stopped and I went in search of a sandwich for lunch before packing up.

Although the rain had stopped the grass was pretty wet but I decided that putting on my waterproof trousers would be too hot and that my trousers would dry out. The first mile or two was along flat riverbank, firstly through woods, then fields of broadbeans and peas.

Naturally the path turned upwards, and I toiled, sweatily-it was very humid- up through the woods to the countryside beyond. It feels very remote here. Lots of sheep, very quiet roads, and no-one in sight. Eventually I descended to Newchurch where the church is open and provides tea, coffee and biscuits to passers-by. Of course, I stopped for a rest, it was lunchtime, and chatted to a North-South walker who also came in for a drink.

Refreshed, I carried on, uphill once more, now definitely in sheep country. The cloud had started to lift and the views were far-reaching. I haven’t taken many photos because they are just vague hazy shapes in the distance, which isn’t that exciting to look at.

Down the path plunged once more-why do people thoughtlessly build their villages in sheltered valleys condemning walkers to quite a lot of up and down? I reached Gladestry, where the map told me there was a pub. I could see a board on the side of the building as I descended. It looked faded and peeling so I thought it was probably a former pub. But no, as I rounded the corner I saw umbrellas and a sign that said Open 12-2.30. It was 2.45. My heart, which had leapt, now sank, so much so that I stopped at a bench (there’s been a distinct lack of benches so top marks for Gladestry) and ate a Snickers bar. The bench faced the local primary school and while I was there the children came out to practise their singing.

Fortified, I set off again, on the climb to Hergest Ridge. It was a bit of a slog but worth it. The ridge carried on for a couple of miles, a couple of miles of soft, short green turf, with increasing views all around as the sun came out.

Soft turf is great on the feet-have I mentioned that my feet hurt- so I walked carefree, on top of the world, or at least the bit I could see of the world. There were sheep, stonechats and skylarks, as well as small ponds which I learned later are not only good for the sheep but contain the rare fairy shrimp.

I would say it came to an end all too soon but, if truth be told, my feet were hurting and I was looking forward to reaching Kington and my B&B. I passed a clump of monkey puzzle trees and the path of the old racecourse that was in use until the late 1880s.

After that the path turned downhill all the way to Kington. I have to say, it seemed interminable, and the last mile or two was on the road, which my feet were not happy about. Eventually I reached my B&B which is in the centre of town. The landlady is away but she has three regular guests staying. It is very comfortable and my room looks out over the road so I have been watching the comings and goings.

I met up with Damian (the other LEJOGER) for dinner and then we met Karen,who had had a rest day in Kington, and sat in the pub until the very late hour of 9.30. At that point we went our separate ways to bed. Karen and Damian are off to Knighton (very confusing Kington and Knighton) tomorrow so I may not see them again -I am having a rest day- although Damian is having two nights in Knighton to have a day seeing a friend and stocking up on supplies so I might see him. It’s been great meeting people who are also walking and comparing stories about our days, and our plans for the days ahead.