Day 73 Another day, another bog

Today we crossed Stainmore Moor where, so Graham tells me, Eric Bloodaxe (King of Norway and King of Northumbria) was killed by the Saxons. Be that as it may, it was a pleasant walk if a bit boggy underfoot in places.

At breakfast (absolutely delicious cooked breakfast, great muesli and homemade jams-rivals best B and B breakfast so far) we had discussed the BBC weather forecast and were fairly confident that a 9% chance of rain boded well for the day. The other thing that boded well for the day was that Graham had offered to carry some things from my pack (most of the weight) so I was looking forward to the walk.

We set off, keeping our eyes open for Dotheboys Hall. There were a couple of candidates but due to a lack of information boards/plaques etc we weren’t sure which it might be. I took a photo but it didn’t pass my quality control test so I haven’t included it.

We set off uphill, as always. Over the A66 and past the ex-RAF toxic waste dump, it’s not all pristine moorland and quaint villages on the Pennine Way, you know.

The drizzle persisted. Then it got heavier. We passed a couple who had stopped to put on their waterproofs. We carried on until we too had to stop to put on ours. We were not overly impressed with the weather forecast. The on and off nature of the rain meant that my phone was safely in it’s waterproof cover, zipped into my trouser pocket, underneath my zipped waterproof trousers pocket so rather tricky to get out for a quick photo. Which is a long-winded way of saying that I didn’t take many photos today.

We came down from the moor to reservoir country, passing first Blackton Reservoir then heading for Lunedale, where the map showed a picnic table. If you’ve been reading the blog with even the smallest bit of attention you’ll know how I feel about picnic tables. I sped up downhill, crossing what felt like thousands of sub-standard stiles (I might rant about them another day) only to find that the reservoir was empty.

This was not because the residents of Co Durham had been leaving the tap on while they brushed their teeth, but because repair work was being done to the dam. Which meant (can you believe it?) that the picnic table was behind a locked gate. That was not going to stop me-Graham and I were over the gate before you could say Jack Robinson.

The Ancient Unicorn’s packed lunch did not disappoint. We tackled it with relish, saving a piece of cake for later.

After lunch we passed Hannah’s Meadow. Hannah was a farmer who managed her meadows in the traditional way and was brought to public attention when a BBC producer came across her whilst walking the Pennine Way. Durham Wildlife Trust bought the farm in 1988 and have continued to manage it as a traditional meadow, and an SSSI.

A little bit further on, we came across a sign saying Tuck Shop Ahead. We were intrigued. And there was indeed a tuck shop. We had a can each. Now we were on the last push-over the hill between Lunedale and Teesdale. It seemed quite a long hill, but the gradients were gentle and there were gates rather than stiles, so all was well.

Eventually we reached the brow of the hill and began our long descent into Middleton. We are staying at the Teesdale Hotel.

Our day wasn’t over yet. Whilst we were having dinner (we both had pork, apple and black pudding pie) my phone rang. It was Karen who I had met on Offa’s Dyke and who was now doing the Pennine Way. She is camping all the way and has been doing some very long days. She came and ate with us and we persuaded her to treat herself to a short day and walk with us tomorrow.