Day 98 The Devil’s Staircase

Today was to be a short day, just 8 miles according to the map. We didn’t want to arrive in Kinlochleven too early so we had a leisurely breakfast (with good coffee) then read for a while before leaving at ten. The other reason for leaving later was that we hoped the low cloud would burn off.

We followed the old military road for about three miles to the foot of the Devil’s Staircase. This fearsome sounding ascent is really just a zig-zag path up to the top of the hill before the long descent into Kinlochleven

We managed the Devil’s Staircase with no real problem. It was steep but not as fiendish as most of the Cornish hills, and there were almost no steps, which, as I find steps (the steep ones which make you think, this must be what a toddler climbing the stairs feels like) particularly devilish, was a Good Thing.

The cloud lifted as we climbed. The military road didn’t go right to the top of the hill but passed through a saddle. There we met the two students (James-ancient history – and Daniel -biology) from our night at Inveroran, who we’d also seen at the Kingshouse where they were camping, and Simon, who had just finished an early lunch. Long distance paths are quite sociable. Matthew, who finds it difficult to resist hills, climbed to the top of what I think is Stob Mhic Martuin (707m) while I listened to a podcast (More or Less in case you’re wondering,)

We left the top of the path and rounded the corner which opened up views north and east

Our route was now downhill, a nice gentle gradient, gradually winding its way down the hillside into Kinlochleven. I’d just like to say a word about pronunciation here. I say Kinlochleeven, (which is right) and it has never occurred to me to call it anything else but I have noticed that all the English people call it Kinlochleaven (which is wrong). Strange.

Kinlochleven was two small hamlets round two estates until an aluminium smelting factory was set up here. I’d like to tell you more about it but the Visitor Centre, which hosts The Aluminium Story was shut by the time we got there and as it doesn’t open until 10.30 tomorrow I won’t be able to enlighten you. Anyway, there was a hydroelectric plant to power the smelter and the buildings and pipes are still there.

The afternoon was now one of blue skies and warm sunshine which is a welcome change from the last few days. We have wandered around Kinlochleven, booked a table for dinner tonight at one of the pubs, bought our breakfast, and lunch, from the Co-op, and Matthew is sitting outside while I am lying, feet firmly off the ground, on my bed, writing up this blog.