Day 58

Today I woke rather early, after being aware of a lot of tent-flapping noises during the night. The clouds were low, and all the cows in the next field were asleep. I put my head back inside the tent and didn’t put it out again for another hour. I made myself breakfast-porridge and camomile tea- and started my packing. I heard a few strange poses so I looked out to find that almost the entire herd of bullocks had migrated towards my tent and were staring at it fixedly. Clearly they don’t get out much.

I set off at 8.10. It was a gentle uphill slope for the first two miles. The footpath, I’m glad to report was easy to find and to navigate and moreover was cow -free. I hit the (quiet) road and plodded along. I was starting to feel a bit jaded by my disturbed night and my heavy backpack but on reaching the A-road (yes, another one) I lifted my eyes up and saw a tea-room. Open from 10am and it was now 10.30- my heart lifted only to sink again when I realised it wasn’t open until tomorrow. A cyclist pulled up as well, and was, he told me, starving.

He cycled off and I took to the hills. Happily, my previous plodding gradual ascent meant that it wasn’t long before I was at a ridge. I looked behind me and the view took my breath away. It was yesterday’s view but with even more distance. Ahead of me was mile upon mile of bare hillside and I thought I could see the Kinder plateau.

From here my path headed downwards to the Errwood Reservoir. If you’re an Alan Garner fan you will remember the ruined Errwood Hall in The Moon of Gomrath. If you’re a long-distance walker you’ll know that anything off the trail is Too Far To Visit. So I didn’t. If you are an Alan Garner fan, I also saw Shutlingsloe and Shining Tor. On my map I had highlighted the footpath to the top of Shining Tor. Definitely Too Far To Visit.

I crossed the dam and started to walk uphill (of course). It was quite steep so I definitely needed a rest when I reached the top.

Once again, the view was stunning. Equally of note was that the whole of the remaining route was down

Down, down and down I went. The sun was out now and I was tired and hot and feeling in need of a bench, which appeared.

I rested for ten minutes or so, then walked into Combs. The Beehive Inn (and farm shop) was open so I attended to my rehydration needs with a bottle of Coke and a soda water.

It was now time to head to my campsite, a mere ten minutes walk away. Alas, I don’t have it to myself but I have been able to charge my phone (which involved lurking outside the shower block for an hour or so). I was just about to see to my dinner when I realised I was ravenous so I rang the Beehive and booked a table. I have had a spinach and butternut squash lasagne. I would have had a pudding but, and you might find this difficult to believe, nothing appealed. Mainly because most of them were chocolate-based. Great if you like chocolate, less good if you don’t.

I hope I sleep better tonight but as there is a railway line directly behind my tent I’m not entirely sure I will.