Day 67 A Cooler and Shorter Day

Today I only had 6.5 miles to walk. The day started cloudy and stayed cloudy for quite some time. Despite trying to delay my start, I was ready to leave by 9am.

The path led uphill out of Gargrave, over the Leeds and Liverpool canal and out into the countryside and the Yorkshire Dales National Park. The fields were, of course, well-populated with cows. One did start towards me but lost her nerve so all was well.

After crossing Newfield bridge the path followed the River Aire through fields of sheep and recently cut grass. The stiles were still tricky -this time one of the stones at the top of the wall was loose so when I grabbed it for support it slid. As did I, but reached the ground without incident. I sauntered along, I stopped for elevenses, but still I could tell I would be at Malham rather early. I passed the rather grand Hanlith Hall and slogged up hill before the path took me down into Malham.

My campsite was right at the edge of the village and I was there before one o’clock. I pitched my tent in a shady (though spectacularly un-scenic) spot, unpacked and had my lunch sandwiches that I had bought in the Co-op in Gargrave that morning.

Malham, being limestone is really just one big geography lesson. First you see the very apparent change of scenery as you approach. Next you have Janet’s Foss and Gordale Scar, and to top it all off Malham Cove, but I’ll save Malham Cove until tomorrow.

As I had nothing to do all afternoon, I decided to visit Janet’s Foss (foss=force=waterfall). There were a lot of people heading that way, firstly along a flat white (local limestone chippings) path, then through a beautifully cool, wooded area until I reached the waterfall. There were quite a lot of people there, swimming and generally having fun in the pool beneath the waterfall. Legend has it that Jennet (or Janet) queen of the fairies lives behind the waterfall but there was no sign of her or of a cave that she might inhabit. I climbed up above the waterfall-I say climbed, it was a stepped path that led up the side – and carried on, away from the cool wooded area along another white path (and a road) to the stream that came from Gordale Scar.

The Scar is a small gorge, with a waterfall and sheer walls where climbers gathered. The notice board was full of the magnificence of the Scar but I think I’ve been spoiled both by TV programmes about natural wonders and by seeing other limestone areas. It was OK. Was it worth a, by now, rather hot walk? Not sure. It was fun to watch the climbers though.

I walked back to my tent, and sat and read for a while (there was a chair which I appropriated) before heading back into the village. I visited the National Park Visitor Centre, and read about the limestone. I walked to one of the pubs to book my dinner only to find that they were completely full. I tried the other pub-full inside but if I could get an outside table that would be OK. I bought a Yorkshire ice cream. Definitely not God’s Own ice cream, the Cornish ones were much better. I might not say that in public here in Yorkshire though.

You will have realised by now that my afternoon was a little on the dull side. As soon as was decent, I headed to the pub for dinner. All outside tables full. I went inside to see if the barman could suggest a cunning strategy. No, but looking out of the window behind me he thought someone was about to leave so I should grab that table. I did. I had a pleasant, leisurely -after all, there was nothing to do once I’d finished-meal of Salmon Wellington, leeks and new potatoes. My pudding was an apple back at the tent. I settled down and read for a while before having an early night.